Monthly Archives: September 2009

Another Lightroom Tip: Out Damn Spot!

I’ve been staying up much too late watching Ken Burn’s “National Parks” film and so I was rather annoyed to find that I slept in a bit late on a rare foggy morning. While wading around in the river looking for visual moments in the rapidly decreasing fog I found a nice splash of color and proceeded to shoot there for the next 20 minutes.

Unlike the grand, sweeping landscape shots of mountains or lakes, these intimate landscapes require a very high aperture setting to obtain any significant depth of field. Here I’m shooting at f/13 and the scene really called for even more, but tradeoffs start building up quickly after f/11 (diffraction, exposure time, etc.)

The physics of light giveth and they also taketh away. With a digital SLR cameras, high f-stop PLUS high contrast = dust spots. The increased aperture alone emphasizes spots on the sensor, but if  you start raising the black point of your images to increase the contrast during post-processing, you can expect to see dust spots popping out of the woodwork — especially in areas of smooth tonality – skies and water, for example.

Getting rid of dust spots used to mean heading over to Photoshop for a session with the cloning tool, but both Lightroom and Aperture (and other photo software) have recognized the ubiquity of the DSLR dust spot problem and provide tools to help clean up your images. Here are a couple of tips for Lightroom:

1. Since all of the image changes in Lightroom are non-destructive, jack up the black point to over-emphasize contrast difference. The spots will make themselves much easier to find. You can do your spot cleanup and then just return the black point to the setting you want for creative purposes.

2. If you zoom in 1:1 on the image, you can use the PageUp and PageDown keys to quickly cycle through each segment of the image. This is far easier and more methodical than dragging the image around.

3. However, dragging the image around at 1:1 zoom has advantages that should not be overlooked. After you have paged through, use the drag tool to “jiggle” the image. There are two reasons for this — while the paging method is complete you will tend to not notice spots along the edges, so a quick dash around with the dragging tool takes care of the “seams”. The second reason is that the human vision system has special processing for movement and edge detection. By jiggling the image you will see spots that you might otherwise overlook. If you’re not using those neurons to stay alive on the savannah anymore, you can at least put them to use making nice photographs. :-)

4. As with the black point control, you can also find spots using another Lightroom tool in a way it wasn’t designed for: the sharpening tool’s masking setting. Zoom in 1:1. Then hold down the Option key (Alt on PC) and click down on the masking control. The display will change to a black and white contrast map of the image — essentially it is displaying all of the edges for you. By raising and lowering the masking you will find that at a certain level (it varies with the image) the dust spots will jump out at you. As a matter of fact it’ll probably find far more than you want to know about!   Just as with the black point control, remember to reset the masking to your desired creative setting after you’ve hijacked it for this particular bit of problem solving.

5. Don’t forget that dust spot removal can be applied (synched) across images! Within a short span of time the spots are unlikely to increase/decrease/move on the sensor so once you’ve done the hard work of finding them, you can reapply them to multiple images. HOWEVER, unless the scene is completely static, you will want to review the fixes at 1:1. The dust spot tool is an intelligent clone tool, but you will probably find that you need to tweak the source of the fix from image to image.

How many dust spots do you see?

Here’s the Masking tool’s view:

lr-screengrab

You can avoid, or at least reduce, all of this work by keeping your digital SLR’s sensor clean.  The Cleaning Digital Camera’s website is a great reference. If you are squeamish about cleaning the sensor you can often send your camera back to the manufacturer for a tune-up.

In my experience dust spots tend to be more visible in prints than on the screen.  So before  you commit ink and paper on an image, spend some time looking for dust spots.  Your piggybank and the environment will thank you.

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A Yellow Lightroom Tip

Color perception is a very tricky thing and you might be surprised to learn that your camera’s manufacturer and/or your photo processing software has a “color personality”.   Where I’ve noticed it most prominently with my equipment (I shoot with Canon cameras and process the images with Adobe Lightroom) is with the yellow response.  (Just to be clear, what follows is true for any color image.  I’m just zeroing in on yellow as an example.)

Before I go any further I have to note that if you are concerned about color fidelity (and it’s just fine if you are not) then you need to have your monitor calibrated with a colorimeter gizmo like ColorVision Spyder or some similar device.   After you do this you can decide if you want to be obsessive about color or just concerned.   Obsessives (or people whose livelihood depends on accurate color) will have very special lighting, neutral gray walls in their room, etc.     I’m not one of those people.

This image of Black-Eyed Susans provides a great demonstration of when faced with an unexpected color response from your equipment and workflow, Lightroom has some interesting tools for you.  (I guess I should mention that we’re talking about RAW files here.  If you shoot JPEG you can pretty much skip this article.)

The first thing you want to check is your white balance.   You should have it set to the temperature you’d expect to have at that time (or, if you happen to have a neutral test target with you, image that and use it as the reference).   I’m speaking generally here, but the biggest thing the white balance control is “fighting” is the blue cast of the sky.   Because yellow’s complementary color is blue, the white balance has a significant impact on what kind of yellow tone you are going to end up with.

The camera’s response to yellow, and your software’s interpretation of it is subject to a mathematical color response profile.  Different profiles = different color for the same object.   In Lightroom’s Develop module you will find the Camera Calibration panel.  I wrote about this some time ago and it’s something I head to whenever the image Lightroom throws up on the screen doesn’t match my, ahem, perfect memory of the scene.   By selecting different profiles I can usually find one that comes much closer to what I feel the colors should be.

By default, Lightroom uses an “Adobe Standard” color profile – but there are other profiles you can use that have been developed to mimic equipment manufacturer profiles.  (If you shoot JPEG, it is these settings in the camera you can tweak to get the color closer to what you want – but you have to make the change BEFORE you take the image.)

When I imported the flower photo, this is what Lightroom gave me:

wpid1143-20098-263-0957.jpg

More orange than yellow.   Canon’s idea of yellow wasn’t that much better.  This is the Canon Camera Standard profile’s view:

wpid1145-20098-263-0957-2.jpg

Pushing into pumpkin territory (on my monitor).

I finally settled for the “Camera Neutral” profile, which provided me with a satisfying yellow for this image.

The purpose of this article wasn’t to find the scientifically faithful color match.  There are all sorts of ways of bending colors in digital images to do your bidding.   But if you find yourself looking at an image and thinking that it “isn’t quite right”, remember the Calibration panel and try experimenting with the profiles that are provided by Adobe (and I’m sure some folks out there have developed custom ones as well).   You might be two or three clicks away from having an image you are much happier with color-wise.

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Patience

You can learn a lot from a frog…

My backyard pond is home, at any one time, to 5-7 Green Frogs.  Occasionally other species show up, but they either a) eat the other frogs and leave, or 2) get eaten.  Either way, the ecosystem in the pond pretty much reverts back to Green Frogs sooner or later.

Frogs are very patient animals.  They are the amphibian equivalent of a leopard sitting in a tree all day long waiting for the antelope to just wander a… tiny… bit… closer!   Instead of antelope, they’re after flies or other insects.

Frogs are either super-cool and practically let you bump the lens on them — or they are flying across the pond, diving for cover when you get within 20 feet of them.  Either way, because of how their eyes are situated on their head you have a pretty clear sense that you are being watched and evaluated at all times — and those seemingly spring-loaded legs will fire at any moment.

Photography, and particularly outdoor/nature photography, requires the photographer to be patient.  Sometimes the patience is simply moving slowly towards a subject so that the animal isn’t stressed out.  Sometimes the patience is waiting for some behavior to occur – with no guaranties that it’ll happen.   Sometimes the patience is knowing that, in a few minutes, if the gods aren’t against you, the light will be just right.  Sometimes that afternoon snack lands on the lily pad you’ve got staked out and sometimes you watch the sun go down hungry for a meal.  One thing for sure — you have to be engaged in your environment: there’s no “calling for take out”.

[Update: As luck would have it, Juan Pons recently posted an article apropos to this photograph.  Juan talks about the importance of getting at the eye level of your subject.  Visit [url]http://wildnaturephoto.com/2009/09/24/connecting-with-your-subject/trackback[/url] for some good advice.]

Image captured with a Canon 5D Mark II, 500mm f/4L lens (and I’m going out on a limb here and guessing that I had at least one closeup ring on the rig.)   ISO 200, 1/320 second, f/4.0

Post processing with Lightroom: Cropped a bit off the bottom and a wee bit off the right.  The bottom was just more out-of-focus leaves and didn’t contribute to either the composition or as depth cues.   To push attention to the frog itself I employed two exposure modifications: A 1-stop graduated filter was applied to the top 2/3rds of the image.  Then I added a small amount of (post-crop) vignetting – again, just to nudge the eye a bit closer to the subject.  (Image below is SOOTC for comparison purposes. The 500 and the full-frame 5D exhibits a bit of vignetting.)

wpid1133-20098-263-0873.jpg

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